A Food and Wine Lover’s Guide to 48 Hours in New Orleans
The late Anthony Bourdain once said, “There is no place like New Orleans. So it's a must-see city because there's no explaining it, no describing it. You can't compare it to anything. So, far and away, New Orleans." He was right—and that’s why it took me so long to visit New Orleans. A place that no one can describe? It didn’t intrigue me.
For years, friends told me that I simply had to visit. Why? “Unique,” “indescribable,” and “see for yourself” were among the reasons. Again, these vague terms didn’t convince me—until they finally did. Then, after returning from my visit, my Dad asked me what I enjoyed about New Orleans. Having fallen into the trap, I said, “I don’t know—it’s so different.” (It turns out The Big Easy isn’t so easy to explain.)
Since then, I’ve tried to describe it in more tangible terms—it’s a self-imposed challenge at this point. Its food, culture, architecture, and people embody and celebrate the “melting pot” metaphor. This New Orleans-style melting pot is full of different traditions, values, and heritages spiced with nostalgia and laissez-faire spirit. One could argue it is unlike anywhere else in the United States; another could say it is the epitome of the United States.
Although I’m enjoying this challenge, it boils down to this: New Orleans is one of a kind. “So it's a must-see city because there's no explaining it, no describing it. You can't compare it to anything. So, far and away, New Orleans." He was right.
Continue reading for my recommendations for your visit to The City That Care Forgot.
Where to Eat and Drink
La Petite Grocery
Located on Magazine Street upriver from the Garden District, La Petite Grocery is quintessential NOLA in and out. This charming spot features a fantastic wine list, including Champagne by-the-glass for less then $20 per glass. You’ll want to order the Champagne to pair with the blue crab beignets as your starter. Crispy outside and creamy inside, La Petite Grocery’s crab beignets are on my list of favorite dishes ever. Another top contender: their butterscotch pudding paired with Sauternes, a sweet French wine.
La Petite Grocery, 4238 Magazine Street
Herbsaint
I used to think people were exaggerating about the food in New Orleans. Then I went to Herbsaint. Located along the St. Charles Streetcar Line, Herbsaint is known for its French-Southern cuisine and elevated cocktails. They also have a well-curated wine list that included one of my favorite French wine producers, Jean-Jacques Girard of Bourgogne. At Herbsaint I fell in love with gumbo—my first ever! Their house pasta and seasonal King Cake cookies were notable, too.
Herbsaint, 701 St. Charles Avenue
Bacchanal Wine
Bacchanal is a quirky wine bar, store, and hangout looked in Bywater downriver from the French Quarter. When you arrive, pick out and pay for a bottle of wine in the front store. The selection is impressive for a small spot. (I grabbed a bottle of Bordeaux Blanc.) Then, head toward the backyard for live music, food, and merriment. On your way, you’ll spot a self-serve ice bucket station with ice, buckets, and glasses. Don’t be shy—grab a bucket, scoop up ice, and enjoy “NOLA’s backyard party”!
Bacchanal Wine, 600 Poland Avenue
Willa Jean
Willa Jean is a must-visit breakfast and brunch spot in the Warehouse District. Here, my server convinced me that I needed to try their biscuits with both sausage gravy and chicken with hot honey. I’m no fool; I listened. Paired with a salted honey iced latte, this is the brunch you need after a few too many Sazeracs. If you visit during Carnival season (Epiphany to Mardi Gras), you can try their King Cake by the slice, too.
Willa Jean, 611 O’Keefe Avenue
The Vintage
Speaking of King Cake… Actually, before that, let’s acknowledge the elephant in the room. You might notice that Café du Monde’s beignets are not on this list. No disrespect to this famous institution, but powdered sugar doesn’t thrill me. What does thrill me? King Cake. So, to get my beignet fix, I went to The Vintage in the Garden District for their special King Cake beignet. Sugary and packed with cinnamon, this seasonal offering is one of their “fancy” beignets. If powdered sugar isn’t your thing but you want to try a beignet, put this on your list.
The Vintage, 3121 Magazine Street
Cochon Butcher
Here’s another New Orleans classic: muffuleta. Owned by the same restaurant group running Cochon next door (and Herbsaint), Butcher is a butcher shop, bar, and casual eatery near The National WWII Museum. Their menu is a meat lover’s dream of house-made charcuterie, sausages, and sandwiches. As a sandwich lover, muffuletta was at the top of my must-eat list in New Orleans, and this version did not disappoint.
Cochon Butcher, 930 Tchoupitoulas Street
What to Do
Tour the French Quarter
My #1 NOLA recommendation: book a tour with New Orleans Architecture Tours. I toured the French Quarter with a small group of fellow tourists led by our guide, Guy. We learned the history of New Orleans and the different architecture types and styles. French Quarter tours start at 10am and 1pm. I recommend the morning time slot for a leisurely walk through the Quarter before revelers get the party started on Bourbon Street. This is a safe, easy way to enjoy the French Quarter’s charms, especially for solo travelers.
Stroll Through the Garden District
The Garden District is another historic, lovely neighborhood to visit. Here you’ll find an array of beautiful houses in various styles, plus shopping and restaurants. In this neighborhood you’ll find one of New Orlean’s oldest cemeteries: Lafayette Cemetery No. 1. Unfortunately it was closed for repairs and maintenance while I was there, but I still got to see some of the above-ground tombs through the gates. The cemetery is next to Commander’s Palace, a popular and well-known restaurant. Although there are organized tours of the area, I found the mansions’ informational plaques sufficient.
Where to Stay
The Ritz-Carlton New Orleans
If you want to experience New Orleans in style, The Ritz-Carlton is calling your name. My favorite parts were the cocktails at the jazz lounge and the Champagne vending machine. During quiet times of year, you can find nightly rates under $300/night. I highly recommend visiting in January to experience Carnival season before festivities go into high-gear, which is about two weeks before Mardi Gras.
The Ritz-Carlton New Orleans, 921 Canal Street
