Five Reasons Bordeaux Should Be Your Next Wine Trip
On April 28, 2020 I resigned to the fact that I wouldn’t be traveling to France that May as planned, cancelled my flight to CDG, and vowed that France would be my first international trip once things went back to normal. Well, clearly things haven’t gone back to normal, but thanks to vaccines, tests, masks, and health passes, I kept that promise to myself and visited France in late November-early December 2021. It was a whirlwind of contrasts: I felt excited—and anxious. I went on adventures—and followed strict protocols. I enjoyed leisurely train rides—and underwent Covid tests. I learned that international travel is different now—and I discovered that the spirit and beauty of France is the same. The Eiffel Tower still twinkles every night on the hour, the butter still tastes as luxurious as ever, and the wine still expresses terroir with every sip. When you feel safe visiting, France is waiting for you.
But in a country overflowing with food, wine, and cultural destinations, where exactly should you go? The answer is Bordeaux. (And Paris, too. Always Paris!) Whether you’re a solo traveler, a group of friends, or a couple, Bordeaux is the perfect destination for your next wine trip.
Terraced vineyard at Château Tour Saint Christophe
Châteaux
Bordeaux is a large, developed wine region with an abundance of sub-regions and appellations to visit. Each sub-region has a special focus. On the Right Bank, you’ll find Merlot-dominate blends in the Libournais. On the Left Bank, Cabernet Sauvignon is king along the Médoc peninsula. Graves has something for everyone, including sweet wines from appellations like Sauternes. And don’t forget Entre-Deux-Mers, the home of crisp, dry white wines.
Whichever area you choose, there are myriad châteaux to visit. I was overwhelmed by the options and contacted guide and expert Elodie Jouannel for help. A native of Bordeaux, Elodie spent years living in the U.S. and Central America before settling back in her home region. Today she helps wine lovers discover the wines and cuisine of Bordeaux through her Bordeaux with Elodie services.
Elodie set me up with guide Emilie who picked me up at my hotel in central Bordeaux, transported me around the region, and helped me understand the ins-and-outs of Bordeaux wine from a local perspective. Emilie and I visited the Right Bank, focusing on châteaux in the appellation of Saint-Émilion. At Château Tour Saint Christophe we climbed through terraced vineyards and I tasted wines from across the Vignobles K portfolio. At Château Jean Faure we toured their coveted vineyards located less than 100 meters from the famous Château Cheval Blanc. Both château visits were enlightening; I learned about classic Bordelais winemaking, differences in terroir, and unique distinctions between châteaux.
Tasting at Le Cellier de Saint-Émilion
Culture
Both Bordeaux and Saint-Émilion hold UNESCO World Heritage Centre status. For their honored wine, architecture, cuisine, and traditions, both cities are recognized for their value to humanity and history. Beyond wine, these destinations are worth visiting.
I recommend dedicating a entire day to exploring the city of Bordeaux. Shaped like a crescent on the Garonne River, this port city is an urban success story. In the mid-1990s, Bordeaux’s 18th-century limestone buildings were blackened by a combination of industrial pollution and high humidity. (Limestone is naturally porous.) Mayor Alan Juppé launched a revival campaign to sandblast the buildings to restore their ornate features and cream-colored façades. The effort was worth it—Bordeaux is beautiful today! It is a highly walkable city with shopping, river views, cafes, and historic sites.
Bordeaux’s captivating counterpart, Saint-Émilion, can’t be missed either. Saint-Émilion is smaller, medieval, and—this is very important to note—incredibly hilly. The steep, narrow streets are intimating but worthwhile for the experience and views. Sturdy shoes with grippy bottoms are necessary for the worn cobblestone inclines.
In Saint-Émilion, there are restaurants, bars, shops, and bakeries. Be sure to check out Le Cellier de Saint-Émilion, a must-visit wine shop in the center of town. At Le Cellier I tasted wines from Château Jean Faure and other châteaux around the Right Bank. They happily ship wine for a reasonable price if you find bottles to send home, which I’m confident you will.
Cuisine
Bordeaux is located in Gascony, a region famous for its cuisine. Located in Southwest France, Gascony is known for rich dishes like foie gras, duck confit, and, more specific to Bordeaux, Entrecôte Bordelaise, which is Bordeaux-style steak with red wine sauce. For dessert lovers, the region’s canelés cakes are a treat for any time of day. And you’ll never be hard-pressed to find one—there are bakery windows with fresh canelés for purchase throughout the historic center of Bordeaux.
Bordeaux is also home to several Michelin star restaurants. I visited one of the newer star-holders, Le Gabriel, not once but twice during my three-day stay. Located on Place de la Bourse, Le Gabriel is three concepts in one: bar, bistrot, and Michelin-star restaurant. For lunch, Elodie and I dined at the bistrot on the second floor. We sipped Bordeaux Blanc and indulged in three courses: salmon three ways for the starter, roasted pork for the main, and chocolate confections for dessert. For dinner I enjoyed a solo tour of the finest food and wine at the top tier L’Observatoire du Gabriel on the third floor overlooking the plaza and river. My favorite course was the mushroom risotto paired with a 2017 Meursault from Bourgogne.
In Saint-Émilion, I recommend the charming and authentic Chai Pascal for lunch. Emilie and I enjoyed croque monsieurs for lunch and roasted pineapple for dessert. Of course there was Bordeaux Blanc on the table, plus sweet Sainte-Croix-du-Mont with dessert. Be sure to save room for macarons à Saint-Émilion, the original French macaron invented by local nuns. According to Emilie, Legend says that Nadia Fermigier inherited the recipe through a line of succession and today her shop’s are the truest and best. To find it, climb the steep hill from city center and look for the red and white-striped awning.
Climate
The next two reasons to visit Bordeaux are more practical in nature. Let’s start with the weather.
Notice the blue skies in my photos? This is a destination you can enjoy year round! Thanks to its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, Bordeaux enjoys a maritime climate of warm summers and cool winters. I understand the region is beautiful in summer, but winter is the time to visit. Yes, you will need a winter coat in December or January; the daily mean is about 45°F during these months. (For comparison, Pittsburgh’s is 28°F.) But there’s little to no snow—and there are far fewer visitors. This means more time in the vineyards, more time asking questions, and more attention while tasting. My top travel tip: visit places with mild winters during the off-season to save money and avoid crowds. (Versus ski destinations or tropical escapes.)
Convenience
The second practical reason: easy access from Paris. I landed at Charles de Gaulle at 7:30am, cabbed to Gare Montparnasse in Paris, and arrived at Gare de Bordeaux Saint-Jean before lunch. The journey was easy thanks to the efficient, high-speed TGV train, and the Trainline app, which I highly recommend for destinations across Europe. The train ride takes about two hours, versus a driving time of six hours. (Perhaps I would have made it by dinner.)
Once you arrive in Bordeaux, there’s no need for a car. Taxis buzz around, public transportation options abound, and walkability is high. However, for visiting châteaux, transportation is necessary. That’s where Elodie and her guides come in—who wants to skimp on wine when you’re in the world’s most famous wine region? Hire a driver so you can safely relax and imbibe. Enjoy every tasting, every lunchtime glass, and every bit of Bordeaux!
After a trip that will leave you dreaming of your next visit, you’ll ride a whizzing train back to the City of Light. Have I mentioned the Eiffel Tower twinkles on the hour? You have to go see it.
Gare de Bordeaux Saint-Jean
La Dame de Fer
