The Confluence of New and Old in the Finger Lakes
Sponsored by Finger Lakes Wine Country
Located in upstate New York, the Finger Lakes wine region is defined by contrast. The blue of deep, finger-like lakes slices across the green, lush landscape. These 11 lakes were formed by glaciers around two million years ago. Today, they are home to breweries, hiking trails, farms, and most notably, wineries and vineyards.
The contrast of the long, skinny lakes against the verdant countryside sets the stage for a host of harmonious differences. There are rolling hills that frame the scenery and narrow ravines that run deep up alongside vines. Across the region, there are also fields of produce that alternate with acres of wine grapes. These contrasts provide balance—something that’s important in nature, in grape growing, and in winemaking.
The wineries and winemakers are no exception to this theme. As you explore the Finger Lakes, you’ll find wineries that have been around for decades and others that have just opened. Like the beauty that ties together the land and lakes, a shared thread binds old and new wineries: a drive to advance the region and its wines. This means constantly innovating and evolving to meet the challenges of winemaking in a cool climate region—whether you’ve been here for ages or opened the doors yesterday. Here at the confluence of new and old, you’ll meet emerging stars who draw inspiration from the land and well-known favorites who break their own rules (and then some). These are just a few of them.
A new generation—with a wealth of experience
Apollo’s Praise is one of the newest and most exciting labels in the Finger Lakes today. Founded by celebrated winemakers Kelby Russell and Julia Hoyle, Apollo’s Praise will focus on wines from Lahoma Vineyards on the southwest shore of Seneca Lake. Kelby and Julia’s ownership of these vineyards is new, but their relationship with them is not. These are established vineyards that Kelby has worked with extensively, most notably when creating the “The Knoll” Riesling at Red Newt Cellars.
On a gorgeous—albeit unseasonably warm—fall morning, I had the opportunity to explore these vineyards with Kelby and fellow wine writer Adrian Prieto. More importantly, we got to work! Under Kelby’s guidance, we gathered random samples of grapes from across Lahoma Vineyards to measure readiness. This critical harvest step determines when to bring the grapes into the winery from the vineyard. We picked samples of Riesling, Chardonnay, and Scheurebe, a German hybrid grape. Keep an eye out for the Scheurebe—this wine will be the grape’s premiere in the Finger Lakes.
Winemaker Kelby Russell at Lahoma Vineyards
Wine grape samples
Living Roots Wine & Co. brings an Australian twist to the Finger Lakes. The duo behind this winery is a husband-wife pair from Australia and New York. Seb grew up in Adelaide Hills and Colleen is from Rochester. They now make wine from both of their home countries and have tasting rooms in Rochester, Hammondsport, and Adelaide Hills. The Hammondsport location is the newest having opened just five weeks before my visit. It is a modern, convivial space with sweeping views of Keuka Lake.
This space is new, but their family’s legacy of winemaking spans generations. In 1850, Seb’s great-great-great grandfather Thomas Hardy immigrated to Australia where he planted the family’s first grapes and started 160+ years of family winemaking. Seb grew up in his dad’s vineyards, worked several vintages across the world, and got a degree in viticulture and oenology. Today, they make super fresh and interesting wines like Bone-Dry Riesling made of New York grapes in a dry Australian style.
Living Roots tasting room
View of Keuka Lake from Living Roots
Weis Vineyards is a newer winery with an Old World spirit. Born in Zell Mosel, Germany, winemaker Hans Peter Weis grew up learning how to make wine in the traditional style of the Mosel. After receiving his degree, he traveled to the United States and worked a vintage in the Sonoma region of California before making the Finger Lakes his home. As evidenced by the abundance of high-quality Riesling in the Finger Lakes, the region is the perfect home away from home for German-inspired wines—and German winemakers.
Today Peter runs Weis Vineyards with his wife, Ashlee Weis. Their new tasting room and barrel room opened in 2021. It is a beautifully modern yet warm and inviting space with picturesque views of Keuka Lake.
Weis tasting room
View of Keuka Lake from Weis
Established standouts—with fresh ideas
Keuka Spring Vineyards was established in 1985 by Len and Judy Wiltberger, and then it was sold to the Simmons family in 2022. The Simmons family has decades of experience in the Finger Lakes—they have been growing grapes since 1960 and currently cultivate over 500 acres of native, hybrid, and vinifera grapevines on Keuka Lake.
Today, Keuka Spring is home to some of the most interesting wines in the Finger Lakes. While visiting the winery, I tried regional classics like dry and semi-dry Riesling alongside innovations like the first traditional method sparkling Zweigelt in the region. Zweigelt is an Austrian red grape that can be made in a variety of styles, including still red and sparkling like at Keuka Spring. In the same vein, Keuka Spring produces a skin-contact white wine from Grüner Veltliner, another Austrian grape. These are examples of the types of wines that are putting the Finger Lakes on the map: cool-climate, experimental, and exciting.
View of Keuka Lake from Keuka Spring
Sparkling Zweigelt at Keuka Spring
Dr. Konstantin Frank immigrated from Ukraine to the United States in 1951, planted the first European grape varieties (vitis vinifera) in the Eastern United States in 1958, and released the first vintage from the Vinifera Wine Cellars (the winery's name at the time) in 1962. Fast forward four decades: Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery remains both a leading light within the region and a representative of the region across the world.
Today, a new, fourth generation leads the way forward. Meaghan Frank, Konstantin’s great-granddaughter, runs the winery and sets its future direction. On my recent tour of the winery, Meaghan’s name came up several times—always in reference to an enhancement or revolution in operations or winemaking. Meaghan is clearly invested in the winery’s future, and she pays homage to its past, too. As the first woman to run Dr. Frank, she launched a new wine series called the Helm series to honor the women of the family’s contributions. I’m very excited to see where she will take Dr. Frank in the coming decades.
1886 wine and food tasting experience at Dr. Frank
View of Keuka Lake from Dr. Frank
Where to stay
1897 Beekman Bed and Breakfast isn’t a winery, but it deserves a spot in the conversation of old and new. This grand house is a restored Victorian manor in Dundee between Keuka and Seneca Lakes. It is rich in history, charm, and breakfast treats. Today it is owned and run by a husband-wife duo named Greg and Lilly. Greg and Lilly moved to the Finger Lakes, Lilly’s home region, during the Covid-19 pandemic. Prior to, they lived with their dog Lola in New York City where they were both restaurant managers. They continue to use their sommelier-skills in the Finger Lakes, introducing guests to the world-class wines of the region. As new owners they have breathed fresh perspective and big dreams into this beautiful, old house.
1897 Beekman House B&B
