My Favorite French-Inspired, American-Made Red Wines

Jun 15

I went to a small, now-shuttered Catholic high school where there were only five, maybe six, people in my French class. We were a little circle of young Francophiles and we called ourselves “La Connexion Française,” the French connection. In the story of my life, high school French class was a subtle foreshadowing of my present-day relationship with French wine. The key word is “connection.”

One of my favorite things about French wine is its connection with wines around the world, especially the wines of the United States. From the proliferation of France’s grapes to the widespread adoption of its production methods, France’s fingerprints are all over wine. Its inspiration is ubiquitous. I might even argue that one of the best ways to appreciate wine as a whole is to learn about the role French wine regions and styles have played in wine origin stories outside of France.

For proof, talk to some winemakers. (Or check out the “further reading” section at the bottom of this post.) If you ask a group of U.S. winemakers what inspires them, how many would cite at least one French wine region or style? I would bet it’s more than a few. In fact, this post was influenced by a winemaker. Finger Lakes winemaker Phil Plummer recently invited me to compare and contrast some of his New York wines with French counterparts on an Instagram Live stream. During our conversation we discussed how the wines at-hand related to French regions or styles—and how they did not. As I reflected on that discussion with Phil, I realized that this is the lens I see wine through. I look for commonalities and differences with French wine in every glass I drink.

I also realized that I should share this revelation with you! Below you’ll learn ways to spot French wine influence and discover a few of my personal favorites from the U.S. Whether you’re a new student of wine or a seasoned enthusiast, I hope these American-made yet French-inspired red wines spark your curiosity—and please your palate!

Qualities to look for

French grapes: Whether they are native to France or heavily integrated into French wine culture (looking at you, Grenache), start with grapes. More precisely, pick a region and look for those grapes specifically. If you would like to try a U.S. wine that is similar to Bordeaux, buy a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc. You can find more grape guidance in the examples below.

Moderate oak: In general, seek out producers who respect the power of oak barrels. French winemakers generally prefer a higher percentage of used and neutral oak versus new oak. To be clear: oak is not the enemy. When used in moderation, it helps many wines become whole. But if you want French-inspired wines, look for “less.” Less time in barrel, less toast of barrel, and less new oak barrels. You can find plenty of U.S. producers who share this principled perspective.

Similar-ish climates: You won’t find 1:1 examples since the U.S. and France are very different countries with varying climate and soil combinations, but you can look for approximations. For example, if you’d like to compare a Southern Rhône blend with an American blend, pick a bottle from a warm, pleasant place with dry summers. The wines will never taste exactly the same; they shouldn’t taste exactly the same. But you’ll have a clearer comparison with less variables if you control for climate and grape.

Rhône-style blends

Thanks to the Rhône Rangers, many U.S.-based winemakers craft wine in homage to the Rhône Valley. The key grapes for this style are Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre. When the three are combined, the wine is a Southern Rhône-style blend known as “GSM” in the U.S. When Syrah stands alone or is blended with a small percentage of white Viognier, it is Northern style. These wines are made throughout California as well as Washington State and elsewhere. OG producers include Bonny Doon Vineyard and Tablas Creek Vineyard, both of California.

Try: Sosie Wines 2019 Rossi Ranch - Sonoma Valley GSM Blend (Sonoma County).* With a single glance at Sosie’s website, it’s obvious why I picked this wine. Their homepage begins, “France has always shaped our appreciation of wine.” From the vineyard to the cellar, the folks at Sosie are proud Francophiles who aim to infuse their wines with French soul. Their GSM blend tastes like freshly picked strawberries and blackberries bundled together by black licorice and black peppercorns. It reminds me a bit of Vacqueryras in the Southern Rhône.

Bourgogne-style Pinot Noir

Bourgogne is perhaps the hardest French region to emulate, but there are very worthy examples. I recommend looking for Eola-Amity Hills AVA (Oregon), Russian River Valley AVA (California), Sta. Rita Hills AVA (California), and Finger Lakes AVA (New York). And remember: where you find good Pinot Noir, Chardonnay is often there, too. Many wineries that produce Pinot Noir also make delicious Bourgogne-inspired Chardonnay.

Try: Martin Woods 2018 Jessie James Vineyard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Proprietor Evan Martin focuses on wines that express a sense-of-place, i.e. the French concept of terroir. Terroir is most coveted in Bourgogne, a region whose reputation hinges on its unique growing conditions. While Evan Martin’s Pinot Noir is authentically Oregonian, the emphasis on place is très Bourguignon. I also love the Pinot Noir ranges at Craft Wine Co. in Oregon and Sandhi Wines in California.

Beaujolais-style glou glou

For wines that imitate Beaujolais, look for two magical words: “carbonic maceration.” Or sometimes you’ll see “semi-carbonic maceration.” This is a winemaking technique that imparts soft, fruity flavors. In Beaujolais, Gamay is the primary red grape. In the U.S., producers are using Gamay plus an array of other red grapes including Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, and Carignan. This style is becoming more common as chillable red wines gain popularity.

Try: Lamoreaux Landing 2019 T23 Unoaked Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). This steel-aged, carbonic Cabernet Franc is among my favorite U.S. reds—from one of my favorite U.S. producers. Lamoreaux Landing casually leaned into the fruitiness of their T23 for a few years before embracing full carbonic in 2019. I’m very hopeful that future vintages will stay on the carbonic course! You should also check out Bow & Arrow Gamay from Oregon and Broc Cellars Old Vine Carignan from California.

Bordeaux-style blends

There’s no shortage of Bordeaux-style blends, sometimes called Meritage in the U.S. So, in the sea of red blends, what do you look for? First, check appellations. Personally I prefer Columbia Valley, Washington, plus its sub-AVAs, and Napa Valley’s mountain AVAs. Next, seek blends based on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. Lastly, if a producer mentions oak usage, look for the words “used” or “neutral.” These blends will taste like plums, black cherries, graphite, cigar ash, and bell peppers.

Try: Chappellet 2019 Mountain Cuvée Proprietor’s Blend (Napa Valley). This combination of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc is a tasty and affordable introduction to Chappellet’s portfolio. For a twist on the theme, L’Ecole 41 blends together Bordeaux and Rhône varieties in their Frenchtown bottling—cleverly named for Walla Walla Valley’s first settlement.

Loire-style Cabernet Franc

Poor Cabernet Franc. It parented Cabernet Sauvignon yet it often takes a backseat to its child. Except in the Loire Valley, France, where it’s the star red grape! It’s the signature red grape in New York’s Finger Lakes region, too. The Finger Lakes make sense for Cabernet Franc: cool, green, and defined by water just like the Loire. You can find many wonderful examples of Cabernet Franc in the Finger Lakes. These are just a few of my favorites.

Try: Montezuma Winery 2019 Voleur Cabernet Franc (New York State).* Named after the French word for “thief,” this Cabernet Franc steals the spotlight in Montezuma’s vast and varied portfolio. Its sour cherry, red bell pepper, and white peppercorn notes remind me of Chinon in the Loire. For more French inspiration in the Finger Lakes, check out Domaine LeSeurre and Ravines Wine Cellar. LeSeurre’s wines are literally French-made—the owners and winemakers are French expats named Céline and Sébastien LeSeurre. Over at Ravines, they make a few red wines that remind me of France, including a Cabernet Franc and a Bordeaux-style blend. And their Keuka Lake location looks like a French country home!