Riesling from Sea to Shining Sea
If you’ve been reading this blog or following me on social media, you know that my love of Riesling knows no bounds. Since I started drinking Riesling, I have appreciated all styles of this dynamic grape from dry to dessert. My exploration of Riesling regions beyond Germany and the Finger Lakes came later though. While I admit that those are still my favorites, my interest in Riesling from across the United States and the world continues to grow.
I’m not alone in my Riesling adoration: wine lovers at all levels of knowledge are enamored with this white grape’s acidity and aromatics. This affinity has spurred its proliferation across the world, especially in “New World” regions that are uninhibited by traditional wine laws. Wine growers and makers in countries like the United States can plant essentially whichever grapes they want, wherever they want. In many parts of the country, this means cultivating—or experimenting with—Riesling.
Although it is planted from coast to coast, the most plentiful (and easiest to acquire) examples are from four states: Oregon, Washington, California, and, of course, New York. Keep reading to learn more about Riesling in each of these states and find winery recommendations.
New York
New York’s Finger Lakes region is the premier home of Riesling in the United States. Thanks to its cool climate, agricultural heritage, prime sites, and deep lakes, this part of upstate New York is a prime spot for Riesling (and a variety of other grapes, too). According to the International Riesling Foundation, there are more than 1,000 acres of Riesling grapes and roughly 130 wineries producing over 100,000 cases a year. Rieslings from the Finger Lakes tend to showcase distinct minerality and notes of lime, lemon, peach, apple, and slate. The region's signature quality is pronounced acidity, which is sometimes—but not always—tempered by a touch of residual sugar. You can find all styles, including dry, sparkling, and dessert.
Try: Hermann J. Wiemer 2020 Josef Vineyard Riesling from Seneca Lake
Other wineries to check out:
California
California is not the first place most people associate with Riesling, but according to the International Riesling Foundation, Riesling was first planted in St. Helena in 1861. Today you can find Riesling sprinkled from Mendocino to Santa Barbara—yes, even in Napa. Given California’s plentiful sunshine, these Rieslings tend to be riper and fruitier than their East Coast counterparts. Look for flavors of apricot, honeysuckle, pineapple, and nectarine.
If you’re new to California Riesling, I recommend starting with Sonoma County examples. While there are just 55 acres planted, these tend to be good quality and easy-ish to find.
Try: Dutcher Crossing 2021 Winemakers’ Cellar Riesling from Russian River Valley
Other wineries to check out:
Washington
Was your first taste of Riesling from Washington State? This is the case for many people in the United States thanks to the ubiquity of mega-producer Chateau Ste Michelle, which is both Washington’s oldest winery and the world’s largest producer of Riesling. While Chateau Ste Michelle has much to offer (I recommend their Eroica line, a collaboration with master German winemaker Ernest Loosen), there are many Riesling producers to try in Washington.
To find Washington Riesling, look for Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley, and Yakima Valley examples. They are typically off-dry to sweet with fresh notes of peach, apricot, jasmine, ginger, and pineapple.
Try: Ryan Patrick 2021 Riesling from Yakima Valley
Other wineries to check out:
Oregon
Based on the wines I’ve tried, it’s a shame that Oregon has only 457 acres of Riesling. These wines are delightful! Riesling used to account for almost 25% of Oregon’s wine production, but alas it has fallen behind due to the popularity of other grapes, mainly Pinot Noir. Oregon’s Willamette Valley is an ideal spot for Riesling for the same reason that it is a good host for Pinot Noir: it is cool. These grapes don’t like too much heat! Hence why they are planted in very strategic spots on the West Coast.
In terms of taste, Oregon Riesling often reminds me of Australian Riesling. Both tend to be dry and have bright acidity paired with punchy notes of lime and peach. (Although not much can touch the dryness of bone dry Australian Riesling.)
Try: Martin Woods 2017 Hyland Vineyard Riesling from McMinnville
Other wineries to check out: